Devil’s Tower… famous for the 70’s iconic movie “Close Encounters of the Third Kind“… and Tower shaped mashed potatoes… and of great spiritual significance to the Lakota, Cheyenne and Kiowa Indian tribes… with a cultural affiliation by over 20 other tribes… and perhaps one of the most beautiful National Monuments in the State of Wyoming.
But what most people don’t realize is… That Devil’s Tower also attracts Angels.
In this case, the ‘Angel’ going to Devil’s Tower is our granddaughter, Opal… to do her first ‘Western Hike’ with Mom, Mamaw, and Papaw (Texas terms for Grandma & Grandpa).
Our Angel granddaughter ‘Opal’… 7 months old, in her ‘Hiking Stroller’, ready to go!
For this hike, we drove from our motorhome parked at Hart Ranch in the Black Hills, to Devil’s Tower, just over the Wyoming state line. The route getting there is a pretty drive, up I-90 from Rapid City, past Sturgis (motorcycle fame), and taking Exit 23 (SD-34) to Belle Fourche (‘Bell Foosh’). From Belle Fourche, travel West on SD-34 to the Wyoming State line… where SD-34 becomes WY-24, and 35 miles later, Devil’s Tower.
Got that? Or… just take a look at the interactive map below… The blue line shows the trip from (A) Rapid City, SD, to (B) Devils Tower National Monument…click on map to expand.
Our next picture shows us well into our travel on WY-34 approaching the little town of Hulett, WY, about 20 miles into Wyoming. Devils Tower can be seen in the background about 15 miles away. Note the Biker coming toward us… our Devils Tower Hike took place the week after the Sturgis Biker Rally – and many bikers were still around, riding the very excellent roads of South Dakota & Wyoming.
Wyoming Highway 34, approaching the small town of Hulett, Wyoming from the East. Devils Tower is in the distance.
After entering the Park thru the Main Entry Gate (using the National Park’s Senior Pass), and then driving past Prairie Dog village, we arrived at the Ranger Station. After getting parked and a bite of lunch, we quickly got unloaded… mounted up… and then we were off!
Leaving the Ranger Station parking lot, starting the 1.3 mile ‘Tower Trail‘ Hiking path.
The trail we were hiking is called The Tower Trail, and is a 1.3 mile paved path around the base of Devils Tower. There is plenty of shade from Ponderosa Pines and rest stops at scenic overlooks with benches. The first 150 yards brings the most elevation change… about 80 feet. The map below shows the official NPS brochure map, and the Tower Trail is shown as the innermost circular trail. Click on the map for more information.
The innermost loop trail shown in the center of the map above outlines the ‘Tower Trail‘ that we hiked. Map courtesy of the National Park Service. Click on the map for more information.
After climbing the first rise in elevation, and starting down the trail, it is clear that we are on a base plateau that overlooks many miles of Wyoming ranch land on all sides… The paved trail provides a great path for the Angel’s ‘Hiking Stroller’.
After just starting the hike… The Angel and her Mom put their heads together… and decided… let’s let Papaw push the Hiking Stroller!
Moving on down the trail, we quickly come upon the 1st trail overlook… and some of the most beautiful ranch land that exists. The picture below shows this vista. Just out of sight on the left is a bench for resting. We rested a while.
A Trail overlook with a Southern view… very beautiful ranch land.
After taking in the view, and a brief leg rest, we continued on down the trail. Ponderosa Pines are providing shade on this warm day.
Continuing on beyond the overlook … the paved trail is shaded. To the left is rock fall from centuries of erosion from the Tower. These ‘rocks’ are easily 10 – 20 feet in size.
After a couple hundred yards of hiking on down the trail, we came upon a ‘spotter tube’, that when a person looks thru the tube, it shows one of the most interesting, colorful, historical ‘structures’ in any National Park or Monument… The Wooden Stake Ladder.
This wooden Ladder runs up a crevice on the South East side of Devils tower. It was constructed by two local ranchers back in July 1893, specifically for that year’s July 4th celebration. They pounded stakes horizontally into a vertical crevice all the way to the top, then attached vertical wooden boards to make a ladder… to the top. The ladder is now on the US National Register of Historic Places. Our next picture shows that ladder, taken thru my telephoto lens.
On July 3, 1893, William Rogers and Willard Ripley made the 1st ascent of Devils Tower… they constructed a wooden ladder to climb to the top. The remains of this ladder are still visible and in place… note the vertical wooden boards in the middle of the above picture – remains of that ladder!
After marveling over the ladder, and the audacity of the two ranchers to build it, we moved on to the Eastern side of the Tower… and another overlook and resting stop. A beautiful view of the seemingly endless Wyoming ranch land.
A 2nd trail overlook, with an Eastern view. Note the low mountains and pastures… very beautiful ranch land!
Surrounded by such beautiful land… one would wonder, “How did ‘Devils Tower’ get its name?”
Turns out, in the summer of 1875, Lieutenant Colonel Richard Irving Dodge escorted a scientific expedition (Headed by Geologist Walter P. Jenney) to the Black Hills to confirm whether or not Gold had been discovered there by members of General Custer’s 1874 expedition. When Devils Tower was first viewed, one of Gen. Dodge’s interpreters incorrectly translated the native name into “Bad God’s Tower”… which eventually became “Devils Tower”.
Interesting to note, that when the Proclamation to establish Devils Tower National Monument was first published on September 24, 1906, … the apostrophe in “Devil’s” was accidentally left out… and this error has never been officially corrected. Hence, to this day, the apostrophe is left out in the official spelling of Devils Tower.
The Angel ponders… “Why do they call this place ‘Devils Tower’? It’s beautiful!”
While resting at this Eastern view overlook, we noticed just behind us a group of climbers beginning to work their way down from the top. They appeared to be determining just exactly where to commence their descent…
Two members from a party of 5 Climbers, planning their descent from the top of the Tower. Devils Tower is very popular with rock climbers.
When they figured out the best approach down, they started. Click on the picture below to expand the image and see the ropes that have been dropped…
Every year over 5,000 climbers from all over the world come to Devils Tower to climb. It is open to climbers year around, except for the month of June, when climbers are asked to observe a ‘voluntary ban’ on ascents. The Tower is sacred to several Native American Indian tribes, including the Lakota, Cheyenne and Kiowa, and by general consent, the month of June is reserved for them to conduct their ceremonies around the monument.
The climbers have selected their descent path… and start down.
As we start to load the Angel back into her Hiking Stroller, Mom and daughter pause for a brief picture… it is good to be in the West… God’s Country!
Meanwhile… the Angel and her Mom are just plain having a good time at Devils Tower. Yay for the outdoors!
And a goodbye to the climbers…
We get ready to push on… taking one last look at the climbers making their descent.
The Trail continues… late afternoon shadows… Ponderosa Pines…
Following the trail, paved all the way, we start hiking towards the North… beautiful Ponderosa Pines shading the path.
As we round the Tower to the Northeast, we see another climber descending the Tower.
As we move down the trail, we spot another hiker descending the Tower.
The ‘Tower Trail’ is a very popular trail. Being only 1.3 miles in length, paved, and of limited elevation change, it it great for family of all ages. Even Angels love it! We are approaching another vista with a rest bench.
At 1.3 miles, small elevation change, paved, shaded, and with beautiful panoramas… this is a very popular family hiking trail.
More trail, lots of boulders that over the millennia have separated from the Tower column and tumbled down the side.
Continuing on to the North side of the Tower… and boulders in the 20 – 30′ range.
As we enter into a more dense forest, we notice several Native American ‘prayer cloths‘… The one shown below is multi-colored, blue, white, and yellow. Again, we are reminded that the Tower, and indeed, the entire Black Hills, are considered to be Sacred Sites by numerous Indian Tribes. Prayer Cloths and other ceremonial items are to be left alone.
Note the yellow, white, and blue prayer cloth in the middle of the picture, hanging from a tree. These are left by members of local Plains Indian Tribes as part of their ceremonial beliefs.
The Angel, her Mom, the Hiking Stroller… and a Trail.
The Angel, with her Mom now at the helm of the Hiking Stroller, take the lead.
Having almost completed our Hike around the Tower, we are now back on the West side, and see the evening sun setting…. and The Tower, Ponderosa Pines, and blue sky.
Finally… getting back to the West side of the Tower… approaching our starting point. Evening shadows are beginning to set.
The last 100 yards… all down hill! We are back at the Ranger Station parking lot. Our hike is over.
Reaching the end of the 1.3 mile hiking trail. The Ranger Station parking lot can be seen in the distance.
Over the years Alice and I have had the opportunity to visit Devils Tower many times. We find it to have a quiet appeal… beauty… serene… thought provoking of ‘higher’ thoughts… kind of like a church steeple. Not surprising to find an Angel attracted to it. I think she will be back… perhaps many times.
Thank You for taking the time to read this post. If you are so inclined, please leave us a comment sharing your thoughts on Devils Tower. It is truly one of the most unique places in our beautiful America.
Jim & Alice LaPeer
Hi Joe. good to hear from you! Yes, I would recommend this for a visit… something calming about the place… peaceful. and the Ranch Land around that part of Wyoming is well worth a drive thru, also.
I took a moment to check you website – How’s the Windseeker going? it sure is a beautiful Coach… I’d love to see it someday. Don’t want to ride in it, because I would forever be spoiled! Not really, but I am sure it rides as well as it looks.
Anyway, lets stay in touch… maybe our paths will cross sooner rather than later. Be good to renew shared experiences. Say hello to Libby for us.
Jim & Alice
Looks like a worthy stop, Jim…. I’ll add it to my list for the 2017 tour options. We’re headed east this winter and doing the East coast next summer Thanks for sharing.
Beautiful! I remember it well from last year when we visited it twice – once on the way from Gillette Escapade to Rapid City, and again with a caravan on the way from Yellowstone to Winkler, Manitoba for a factory rally Labor Day week. Good to hear from you guys. We arrived in the Omaha area around July 4th, and we are still here! We rented an apartment here for 6 months to help our son & daughter-in-law with the launch of the business venture we discussed with you. Finally closed on the building purchase and storage business about 3 weeks ago. We will be heading back to AZ in January. Happy travels, and if you get close to Omaha, give us a call. We’d love to hook up with you again!
Ron & Cindy
What a neat place! I’ve visited a lot of sights, but never been to that one! Looks very cool! So glad you got to have Mary and Opal with you there!
Hi, Gretchen. Thanks for comments… The part of Wyoming where Devils Tower is located is just beautiful… rolling low mountains, canyons, rivers… We love it. Lots of Western influence around here, too – Makes us feel like ‘Texas’, Alice’s home state.
Hope all is well with you and family. See you in December.
Jim
Wow look like you all are really enjoying your traveling. It is so nice Mary and your grand daughter got to come with you to this beautiful area. Its been cold and raining in Michigan. I like the cooler weather though. Pretty soon all the leaves will change and then snow.
You guys enjoy that nice weather out there, and your family too. It looks great there have fun, and cherish the memories. Talk to you soon Mike & Ellen
Hi Mike. Thanks for the comments… we enjoying hearing from back home! Hope all is well for you and Ellen. I imagine it is beginning to feel a little like Fall back in Michigan… Best time of year there. We have the same kind of thing here in the Black Hills… Mountains actually… a combination of Aspen, elms, and even a few maples. Placed on a mountainside with rock outcroppings, they are quite beautiful.
We’ll be back in Michigan in December… maybe we could get together and chat? Wanted to back in July, but a new granddaughter kept getting in the way.
Lets touch base then.
Jim
Also a fun fact; Devils Tower has been depicted on two U.S. postage stamps. Devils Tower 50th anniversary (3 cents) and 100th anniversary (49 cents). Maybe Opal will grow up to be a stamp collector!
Hi, Cande. Thanks for the info… I never knew that about Devils Tower. At the Ranger station, they did mention that it is the first National Monument, but the stamps… We may have to send them a letter!
Hope all is well with you and Jack. We like this area of the states, and are enjoying easing into Fall… some color in the mountains already. Had snow a few days ago… earliest snow since 1888. all gone now, and today will be sunny and 81 degrees. We find the proximity of mountains can really play games with forecasting weather! Alice and I took a little 10 mile back road trip yesterday, from Keystone to Hill City – saw 123 deer, and a bunch of Turkeys. The wildlife out here is fantastic – and we even saw a mountain lion a couple of weeks ago.
In a few weeks we will go check out Texas again… and Michigan in December. See ya then.
Jim
Looks like you all enjoyed a great outing. Beautiful granddaughter! Thanks for sharing, and we’ll see you down the road somewhere 🙂 D & T
Hi Tom and Diane. Thanks for the Granddaughter comment… Best one we have!
Hope all is well with you and Tom over in Western Wyoming. We were hoping to get that way about this time, but as you can see, we’re here in the Black Hills ‘gettin comfortable’ and enjoying life. We’ll head to Texas when the Aspen turn color… and eventually back to Arizona. Lets stay in touch, and rendezvous somewhere down the road.
Jim
It looks beautiful there Wow!